Rokeby Manor, Landour- In the Lap of Nature

I love the winters and more than that I love being amidst the mountains. Having almost entirely missed the winters of North India this season due to my Vietnam-Cambodia trip in January, the trip to Landour in the first week of March came as a huge relief from the already soaring temperature here in Odisha.

Landour is a cantonment area- more of an extension of Mussoorie- a small hamlet in Uttarakhand. Tourists to Mussoorie usually visit Lal Tibba, the highest point in the area that is located in Landour.

As much as I love hill towns, I hate the adventurous and nauseating roads that lead there. After some of the most dangerous bends on the road that the driver seemed to be navigating without a second thought, we reached Rokeby Manor and were heartily welcomed by the staff for the 4 day stay.

Rokeby Manor was built in 1840 and changed several hands before being converted into a boutique hotel in 2010 by its current owner. The colonial building is rich in history and the architecture and interiors of the property had me overwhelmed immediately.

Rokeby Manor has 15 rooms of various sizes including two suites. Each room is unique in its appearance and décor. I was assigned one of their ‘Rustic Rooms’- a cosy double room on the ground floor. The room was well insulated and comfortable. Some of the rooms have a working fireplace as well.

The room was located right next to the tea garden from where I managed to spot the popular Winter Line on the first evening. The Winter Line is a natural phenomenon that is visible at only two places in the world- Switzerland and Mussoorie.

Right next to the Rokeby Manor is the The Log Cabin- a 3 bedroom property with a huge lawn and open seating that makes it a perfect family get-together place. I couldn’t help imagining the place clad with snow and a snow fight ensuing between me and my friends right outside the property.

We were later taken on a tour of the Rokeby residences located around Landour. The Bothwell Bank House is a 3-bedroom property with an open seating area, perfect for bigger families and group of friends. It provides a picturesque view of the entire town of Mussoorie. Located right above it is a smaller 2-bedroom property Bothwell Bank Cottage (We couldn’t visit it as it was occupied on those dates). A short walk on the road crossing the Sister’s Bazaar and a few downhill stairs welcomes you to the Pine Tree Lodge- a 2-bedroom property overlooking the snow-clad Himalayan range. Each of these properties are artfully decorated and come with a private attendant who takes care of things for you. You can cook your own food or head to one of the restaurants.

The Log Cabin, Rokeby Manor, Landour

Pine Tree Lodge, Rokeby Residences, Landour

Bothwell Bank Cottage, Rokeby Residences, Landour

Emily’s is located on the first floor of Rokeby Manor and this was where we ended up having most of our meals throughout the stay. Their menu is extensive. We particularly liked the lasagna, the naanzas and the breakfast spread. They have room service during the restaurant open hours if you would like to simply laze in your room and have your food served there. I personally preferred heading to the restaurant and choosing a different table for every meal so as to have a unique view of the valley each time.

Emily's, Rokeby Manor, Landour

Landour Bakehouse is a dessert place located at Sister’s Bazaar. It’s the perfect place to sit for hours at a stretch with nothing to disturb you but the snowclad mountains in the distance (and some witty quotes, if I might add). Order your favourite dessert, get hold of a book and drool over the ideal life. I absolutely loved their Red Velvet Cake, don’t miss it.

Landour Bakehouse, Landour

Clock Tower Café is the only Rokeby property not located in Landour. It is situated a few kilometers away right under the famous clocktower of Mussoorie and is popular for its Chinese food. While we were there, we tried one of their salads and a chicken burger and they were impressive. The quantity was a little too much if my appetite is not to be blamed. Haha!

Clock Tower Cafe, Mussoorie

A little hike up a hill from Rokeby Manor takes you to the Jacuzzi and open air party place that the property hosts. A short walk down the road and you arrive at the Little Salon and Spa Shed. The spa is exclusive to residents of Rokeby properties and you can schedule an appointment on your arrival.

The Little Salon and Spa Shed, Rokeby, Landour

Although there was a planned itinerary for my stay at Rokeby Manor, we were free to change it as per our liking. One afternoon we visited the Jabarkhet Nature Reserve and the next day we were headed to the Buddha Temple at Happy Valley. I loved the addition of the short trek at Jabarkhet that resulted in some amazing views of the valley from the summit. Happy Valley is a little Tibetan settlement with a monastery and serves as a peaceful half day outing.

In retrospect, my favourite part of the entire staycation was perhaps the many walks around the empty streets of Landour. Since it wasn’t the tourist season yet, the roads were mostly empty and walking there in the midst of the wintry chill felt amazing. Not to forget the sound of the bell from Mussoorie’s famous Clock Tower added magic into the mountain air. Rokeby Manor, thanks to its central location in Landour, served as the perfect holiday stay option for a peaceful and relaxed outing.

Things to do in Landour during your stay at Rokeby:

1. Visit Char Dukan, buy some peanut butter and have the steamed momos
2. Walk around the town to Lal Tibba, the highest point of Mussoorie and marvel at the beauty of the Himalayan range
3. Check out the souvenir shop at Sister’s Bazaar and have some sweet delicacies at Landour Bakehouse
4. Don’t miss out on a visit to The Little Spa and Salon Shed (open only for residents)
5. Most of all take in the mountain air and the serenity of the property and relax. There isn’t a more peaceful and non-commercialised hill town around.

Apart from these, there is a lot more to see and do around Mussoorie which you can include in your itinerary like the Jabarkhet Nature Reserve, Happy Valley, Kempty Falls etc.

I was hosted at Rokeby Manor, Landour in March 2018. All views and opinions in the post are completely personal. 

Now read:

1. When we got lost in Himalayan Forests- The Nag Tibba Trek

2. Indian Village-Life Experience at ‘The Goat Village’

3. Top 5 Things to do at Bir-Billing, Himachal Pradesh

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